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 12-13-2005, 08:42 Post: 120952
Murf



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 Hydraulic Cylinders

Harvey, going to a 5" cylinder will also slow it down a little since there is considerably more space for fluid in the bigger cylinder.

The shape of the wedge also makes a HUGE difference in the splitters performance. The ideal splitting wedge has a very narrow section at the front edge, then widens out further back. The lead edge should also NOT be perpendicular to the beam, it should be leading by about 15°, that is the part furthest from the beam should contact the wood first.

That way you are forcing the wood down into the beam, not up off of it, and the part starting into the wood is smaller, and therefore takes less force to get started.

Best of luck.






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 12-14-2005, 08:45 Post: 121036
Murf



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 Hydraulic Cylinders

Any that I've ever seen or built never had anything special as far as metal for the cutting face.

In fact the best one I've had so far the splitting wedge is a piece of 1/2" plate with two pieces of 2"x4"x3/8" angle welded onto the sides such that the wedge ended up being 4.5" thick at the back end. It was all just made out of mild steel. The wedge should, IMHO, flare at a constant rate, IE be a triangle, a compound curve seems to offer more resisitance than a flat sided wedge. This seems to be backed up by the fact that any splitting wedge I've ever seen is flat-sided, surely it wouldn't be hard to make them with curved sides, but they don't.

All my experimenting has shown that a fairly narrow lead edge, followed by a fairly bold flare works the best, then you are combining cutting at the lead edge with prying the wood apart with the wedge as it moves in further.

Best of luck.






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